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Mark Hoza's Kything
Flutes |
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Wooden Irish Style Flutes, ideal for playing traditional Irish/Celtic musicGeneral Price List, as of 3 July 2007: |
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AUD640 2 joints,
without rings. AUD875 2 joints, with
sterling silver rings. |
Click here to find out more about my tuning slides:TuningSlides.html Add AUD30 for regular air mail (10-15 days) to the US. Add AUD50 for International Courier shipping (2-5 days) to the US. Add AUD20 for shipping within Australia. Add AUD70 for a 2
compartment leather case. Add AUD110 for a 4
compartment leather case. 10% GST included on Australian orders. |
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I give 30 days warranty on my flutes to cover defects in matterials and workmanship. Client is responsible for return postage on returned flutes. I have my own merchant facility for credit card purchases. I
also accept PayPal. I can also accept payment by personal check or money order in
Australian or US dollars, |
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| Large hole/large bore flute: Partly modeled after a Pratten's Perfected flute, with some necessary modifications to improve stability and to accomodate a short foot design. This model has the strongest, reediest tone, with a hard low-D. I normally arc the toneholes slightly so that the reach is more ergonomically friendly. I can make the toneholes in a straight line when requested. | Medium hole flute: This flute is roughly modeled after a Rudall and Rose flute (#5047) with medium size tone holes. The tone on this model is quite rich, yet more mellow than the larger bored flutes. Even though the tone holes are smaller than the larger bore models, finger stretch is slightly more difficult, as the toneholes are further apart. Though this flute is quieter than the large bore models, it is nevertheless very well balanced and a nice flute to play. | ||||||||||||
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Flutes without tuning slides can be tuned to some degree with the tenon-socket joint. They are tuned to A-440Hz with the head joint pulled out about 2mm, in order to allow for some sharpening (to about A-445Hz when the flute is warm). I make the tenon about 35mm long to allow for some flattening. A tuning slide is recommended if you expect to play with others on a regular basis. I use a Robert Bigio style crown and end cap design (with his permission). I use a delrin/o-ring stopper, with a ring turned on the face, and a small hole in the end cap, thereby creating a resonance chamber in the north end of the headjoint. I also make my flutes with a taller than normal chimney, sometimes with overcutting on the far side of the embouchure and a recess under the chin. I find that I can get a more responsive flute with these modifications. I effort to make the flute's tone strong while also giving enough resistance so that it can be driven hard when desired. I am now offering a brass/acetal tuning slide on my flutes.
I have a UK reseller for anyone in that neck of the woods.
Contact Sam Wise of Wild Winds. wood headjoints
* Irish flutes
* quenas
* wood
cases * leather cases
* flute
fingerings * links of interest
* timber used
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